Ram Air

Courtesy of Keman

The assembly above can be created using a clay to pvc converter, 4" - 4" availible at most hardware stores. It comes with both pipe clamps you see. It's in the sewer grade adapters section. If you cut the airbox assembly correctly in the prior mod, the larger end should fit on it perfectly. The alluminum tubing is a short length of 4" flexible aluminum dryer hose. It fits exactly into the smaller end of this adapter. Tighten both clamps and it should stay tight. When your done and have it all bolted back in place, it should look like this:

Rather hidden, eh?

The way this works, is that there IS some air drawn in from the lower drivers side air inlet, shown below. It's not got the most direct path, and does have quite a few baffles in place to prevent the car from having water rammed into the engine, but it DOES blow cold air past the air intake with this setup, and will give you a noticable performance gain in that, depending on the weather outside, it won't take as much of a performance hit when it's warm out, and when it's cold outside, the engine will pull VERY hard.

Remember, ignition advance is controlled by air intake temperature. The sensor in the large rubber flexible intake tube that's right below the PVC bracket is the air intake temp sensor. The warmer the air, the less timing advance you will get. That means this engine will benefit dramatically to cold air. So, shown below, I've taken a dremel to the little air intake and carved out the little slits to be one big opening. Seems to work well enough.

Also is a picture of the inside fender that you should route the aluminum dryer hose to press against lightly. This is the opening that is behind the triangle shaped rubber shroud that you should have long since removed and tossed. =)